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NangaParbatWinter16

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http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/winter-2016-nanga-parbat-time-for.html?m=1

 

Looks like Lunger, Txixon, Moro and Sadpara will be going for the summit sometime this week. Best of luck to them as they try to make history as the first to summit Nanga Parbat in the winter (Which would leave only K2 as the last 8000er unclimbed in winter) The guys have been on the mountain since early december and Sadpara and Txixon have got to camp 3 at one stage before being driven back to BC by 120mph winds and minus 48 temps

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http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/winter-2016-nanga-parbat-summit-push.html?m=1

 

The climbers are now at Camp 3 and looks like good weather until Saturday which means we are more than likely to see Nanga Parbat summited this winter for the first time. Absolutely crazy if this is achieved

 

As a PS to the post Camp three is located 6100m high which the body needs to acclimatize too. They will probably go for summit friday or saturday but the good weather ends Saturday night and these experienced guys will know not to get caught up that high when the weather changes or death will follow

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How close does that summit look??? Moro says they will reach camp 4 tomorrow and then go for the summit Friday, That summit may look very close but its still a hell of a death march between C3 and the top including entering the death zone where the body and brain begin to die

What altitude is C4 at? How far to the summit from there?

That's a heck of an overhang they have to negotiate....

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What altitude is C4 at? How far to the summit from there?

That's a heck of an overhang they have to negotiate....

7100 metres bro camp 3 is 6100 which sounds nothing a poxy thousand metres but on that mountain that 1000 metres is like a marathon on the ground it took 5 hours to complete. So from C4 which they are now in they are going for the summit tonight and I have a real feeling they will achieve it tonight which will be a crazy achievement. They are past the Kinshofer route now so the hard climbing is past them on the way up but now its the altitude that becomes a problem because they have not had the chance to acclimatize yet but according to Simone and Alex they are feeling strong as a team, and the 4 are elite. In saying all that many of them have been this high before and failed Moro, TxIxon and Sadpara failed after getting to camp 4

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Cheers for the info RangersFC, i love stuff like that.

 

 

No worries bro it is really exciting stuff, The climbers have got a cracking weather window until Saturday night so it looks like we will see the mountain finally climbed in winter on the 30th attempt, I think out of 280 odd successful summits in summer there have been 38 deaths on the mountain in that time not including the 15 killed in the mountain massacre.

The climbers are exactly where Sadpara and Txixon got to last year but if you look at the difference in the pictures 2015 had hardly any snow up that high (strong winds blow the snow away) but this year it is stacked at the same height, that will certainly make for a more dangerous climb today/tonight and a far harder descent with the threats of avalanche high. Also please remember it is one thing getting to the top but getting back down is 10 times harder

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Well just got word that Moro, Lunger, Sadpara and Txixon will be going for the summit of Nanga Parbat tomorrow morning at 6am, Should take them around 5-6 hours to climb the last 1000 metres (3280 feet)!! They have a definite window of good weather (still minus 40) and have decided it is make or break. Will post updates from the guys as soon as I get them

 

God Speed Guys history beckons and then the call of K2 in winter screams louder

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THAT IS IT ALI SADPARA HAS MADE HISTORY NANGA PARBAT IN WINTER HAS BEEN CLIMBED!!!

 

Ali is the first to set foot on summit but the others are close, the only scary thing is they were supposed to summit at 2pm Pakistani time but its past 3pm now so they may be descending in the dark which is very very dangerous.

 

The main dangers still lie ahead because descent is 10 times harder than ascent and if guys like Anatoli Boukareev can be killed on a mountain anyone can

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Tamara Lunger had to stop just short of the summit which in my eyes highlights just how brutal every single step is up there at 8000 metres in the brutal cold. Absolutely gutted for her because she has put so much in and now i pray she is fit enough to get back down because I know for 100% the lads especially Moro will not leave her behind to die and that will put all 4 in danger

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After todays epic summit of Nanga Parbat the Savage mountain K2 released a statement through interpreters, K2 stands alone now as the only mountain never to have been climbed in winter and have successfully defended its title many times.......

Statement in full (censored)

 

"Yo MuthaF***a's so you all scaled my l'il bro today well F**k y'all!! Bring it on come at me see how far you get and remember I am colder, more savage, more technical and near 2000 ft higher so bring yo **** down to Karakoram 2017 and let me turn yo **** to ice!!"

 

To say K2 was miffed is an unstatement but the Savage mountain now stands alone and one of today's successful climbers Simone Moro was quoted as saying "K2 will probably never be climbed in winter it is too much"

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Definitely bro and I like the way you understand the importance of timing on these mountains, My worry is why did Lunger stop that close she must be in a bad way and if that weather changes and she is hurt or has altitude sickness it will be worrying

Or the other option is that she realised she still had too far to go and took the sensible option.  Just being a part of that group puts her in the history books.

 

What sort of time should they get back down to camp if all goes well?  Must be dark out there already.

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Or the other option is that she realised she still had too far to go and took the sensible option.  Just being a part of that group puts her in the history books.

 

What sort of time should they get back down to camp if all goes well?  Must be dark out there already.

 Sun goes down at around half 5 over there so they will get down to Camp 4 stay the night and then come down the next day which is very sensible 

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Crossing Bazhin Basin; the climbers would be back in the safety of C4 (7100m), shortly before it gets really dark, They will spend the night there in camp 4 before descending tomorrow beating the forecasted bad weather.....

 

This has got to be my last update on this momentous occasion because I have a train to catch the O2 is calling

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